How to Install a Garbage Disposal

How to Install a Garbage Disposal

Direct-replacement disposal install: 45 minutes. New install (no existing): 90 minutes plus electrical.

Mike Torres05/07/2026 · 7 min readDifficulty: IntermediateCost: $80–$300 unit + $0–$200 install

TL;DR

Replacing an existing disposal is a 45-minute job with no electrical work needed (existing wires are reused). Installing a new disposal in a sink that didn’t have one requires running a new circuit (electrical permit) and adding a switch — usually pro work in LA.

Time
45–90 min
Difficulty
Intermediate
Cost
$80–$300 unit + $0–$200 install
Skill Level
DIY w/electrical comfort

What’s in this guide

  1. Replace vs new install
  2. Tools needed
  3. Disconnecting old disposal
  4. Mounting new unit
  5. Plumbing connection
  6. Testing

Garbage disposal replacement is one of the more accessible DIY plumbing projects if your sink already has a disposal. The wiring is reused, the mounting hardware is standardized across most brands, and the entire job runs 45–60 minutes. Adding a NEW disposal where one never existed is a different project requiring electrical work.

Tools & Materials You’ll Need

Tools

  • Adjustable wrench
  • Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
  • Bucket
  • Towels
  • Voltage tester (for confirming power off)
  • Allen wrench (usually included with disposal)

Materials

  • New garbage disposal (Insinkerator, Waste King are the most common in LA)
  • Plumber’s putty
  • Replacement drain hose (if not included with new unit)
  • New mounting gasket (usually included)

Step-by-Step Instructions

Turn Off Power and Verify

At your electrical panel, flip the breaker for the disposal circuit (often labeled “Disposal” or “Kitchen”). Use a voltage tester at the disposal switch under the sink to confirm power is off. Don’t skip this — disposals are wired hot and shock risk is real.

Tip: If the breaker isn’t labeled, turn off the disposal at the wall switch and unscrew the cap on the underside of the disposal. Test with the voltage tester. If still hot, you have the wrong breaker.

Disconnect Plumbing

Place a bucket under the disposal. Disconnect the discharge tube (the pipe leading to the P-trap). Disconnect the dishwasher hose if connected (small clamp). Loosen the disposal mount by rotating the locking ring counter-clockwise — sometimes requires a hammer tap to break loose.

Tip: The disposal will be heavy when loose (15–25 lbs) and gravity will help. Support it with one hand while loosening.

Disconnect Electrical

On the bottom of the old disposal, unscrew the small electrical cover plate. Inside you’ll find black, white, and green/copper wires connected to the unit. Disconnect using wire nuts or terminal screws — note which wire goes where (color matching). Pull the wires out through the cable connector.

Tip: Take a photo before disconnecting. The new disposal’s wiring will match the same colors.

Install the New Mounting Assembly

New disposals come with a mounting collar that goes around the sink drain hole. Apply plumber’s putty around the new sink flange. Drop the flange into the drain hole from above. Underneath, slide on the rubber gasket, fiber gasket, mounting ring. Tighten the screws on the mounting ring evenly to seal the flange.

Tip: Don’t over-tighten the mounting ring — you can crack the sink. Snug + 1/4 turn each on the three mounting screws is enough.

Connect Wiring on New Unit

Following the wiring diagram for your specific disposal, connect black-to-black, white-to-white, and ground (green or bare copper) to the green screw or ground wire. Use wire nuts (usually included). Tuck wires into the unit’s electrical chamber, replace the cover.

Tip: Most disposals don’t come with a power cord — you’re reusing the existing one. If your old disposal had a plug instead of hardwired connection, you can either reuse the cord or hardwire directly.

Mount Disposal to Sink

Lift the disposal up to the mounting collar (the part you installed in step 4). Rotate clockwise until it locks into place. Listen/feel for the click. The unit should hang securely without your support.

Tip: This is the heaviest part of the job. Brace the disposal with one hand under it while rotating into the lock. A second person makes this much easier.

Connect Plumbing and Test

Reattach the discharge tube to the disposal output and to the P-trap. If you have a dishwasher, knock out the dishwasher inlet plug INSIDE the disposal (use a screwdriver and hammer — be sure to remove the broken plug from the disposal interior). Connect the dishwasher hose. Restore power. Run the disposal with cold water flowing for 15 seconds to test.

Tip: Common new-install issue: forgetting to knock out the dishwasher plug. The dishwasher will back up immediately. Fix: shut off and tap out the plug.
MT
Pro Notes from Plumb Inc
Mike Torres · Master Plumber, serving Los Angeles since 2014

After installing 200+ disposals a year, the failure pattern is consistent: motor windings burn out from running with insufficient water flow, or the impellers seize from soft cheese, cooking grease, and avocado pits. The hex-key reset trick works for ~80% of jams; the other 20% need replacement because impellers have bent or motor windings have fried. If you’ve reset the unit twice and it still hums without spinning, stop trying — additional resets weld the magnetic-overload contacts shut and turn a $250 replacement into a panel-board electrical fix.

Knock out the dishwasher plug BEFORE connecting

New disposals come with the dishwasher inlet sealed (so the disposal can be installed without a dishwasher). If you have a dishwasher, knock the plug out FROM INSIDE the disposal. If you forget, dishwasher water has nowhere to go and backs up into the dishwasher.

Real Scenarios from Our LA Service Calls

Sherman Oaks

Disposal install caused dishwasher flood

Homeowner installed new InSinkErator without removing the dishwasher inlet plug. Three days later, dishwasher water backed up and overflowed onto the floor. Called us thinking the dishwasher had failed. Diagnosis: the disposal plug was still in place. Knocked it out (5 minutes), problem solved. Total call: $185.

When to Call a Plumber Instead

DIY isn’t always the right call. Bring in a licensed plumber if any of these apply:

  • Adding a disposal where one never existed (electrical work)
  • Your existing disposal is hardwired to a switch you can’t locate
  • You’re uncomfortable with electrical wiring
  • The mounting collar in your sink is corroded

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a garbage disposal last?

Budget unit (Waste King L-1001): 5–7 years. Mid-range (InSinkErator Badger 5): 8–12 years. Premium (Evolution Excel, Compact): 12–18 years. LA water hardness shortens these by 1–2 years.

1/3 HP, 1/2 HP, or 3/4 HP?

1/3 HP for studio/1-bedroom (light cooking). 1/2 HP for typical 2-bedroom homes. 3/4 HP for large families or homes with heavy cooking. 1 HP+ for commercial-style kitchens.

Do I need a dedicated circuit?

Yes — disposals require a 15A or 20A dedicated circuit. New installs need this electrical work done before plumbing.

Why does my disposal smell?

Food trapped in the splash guard or impellers. Run with cold water + ice cubes + lemon peels. Or remove the rubber splash guard and clean it (food gets stuck above the cutter blades where you can’t see).

What can’t go in a disposal?

Bones, fruit pits, fibrous vegetables (celery, asparagus, banana peels), grease, eggshells, coffee grounds (debatable but they accumulate). Best practice: scrape plates into trash, only RUN the disposal with cold water flowing.

Need professional help in Los Angeles?

Same-day service. Flat-fee pricing. No surprise add-ons.

Call (818) 938-8660
MT
Master Plumber · CA C-36 #1095692 · Founder of Plumb Inc
Mike has been serving Los Angeles homeowners since 2014, with hands-on experience across the San Fernando Valley, Hollywood, Santa Monica, and greater LA. Every guide on this site reflects what we actually see on real service calls.

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